Hello! I just noticed the class supplies sheet shows a 9” shuttle for the tablecloths that are 90 cm wide. I’m curious about why not a 13” shuttle? Is it because the wider width means you have to reach further to catch and throw with a longer shuttle? Is the tradeoff then that you have to wind more quills and deal with more weft ends? Maybe you mentioned it in the video and I just missed that… thanks.

I simply Think the 9 inch shuttle is more comfortable in the hand, and the yarn is fine enough so the quills have plenty of yarn on them.
Becky

I apparently confused a number 9 shuttle (Glimakra) with a 9" shuttle. I used my #9 shuttles throughout Basics and also like how they feel...Thanks Becky!

Hi all. First time trapeze user here winding warp for first classics tablecloths. I fear I have already put this 6/1 tow linin warp through way too much friction but I have uneven tension on the warp tie on and tried to move sagginess forward to trapeze.. now I’m still noticing some loops on back tie on bar are looser than other pass pair loops. And it’s looking like a 1960s back-combed hair pouf where I tied on my extension cord at the front of the trapeze bar. Short warp so end of warp loops are only a couple inches over top pole of trapeze. I have neatened up the back loops but should I keep trying to work all loosey goosey end pairs’ slack to the front??? Just let it look messy at front in order to keep back as even and tidy as possible when winding? Should I add more weight to the front until winding is done and ready to cut front loops?

It's a pretty short warp, and linen is not very stretchy, so just do your best to beam it on, and when you tie onto the front The tension will be evened out At that time. With longer warps there is more room for the tension to be evened out on the trapeze which always works a little better. Just be slow and gentle, and it will probably work out.

Happy Holidays! For the tablecloths made of 6/1 tow linen in Video Classics class, nearly halfway through first tablecloth and getting massive halo fuzz on fabric surface and huge linen dust bunnies on floor. Normal? I’m using a temple. Is this the result of being way too rough with the fiber throughout the warping process?

This is VERY normal.
Great work!
Becky

Hi friends!! I finished 3 tablecloths and some sampling with several different colors. I used half bleached for the main “background color” and bright red, blue, orange, green, yellow plaid. I’ve zigzagged between the cutting lines, but really nervous about washing. I have Retayne but the label says it’s for cotton. Do I need to use one of those color magnet packages (Rit maybe?) in the wash? I have a top loading machine with a gentle cycle and our weather will allow me to dry outside.

There is a LOT of red lint fuzz on the fabric surfaces. I’ve been using a lint roller to try to get as much off as possible before washing. I’m not sure if I can upload any photos here but can send via email if that helps… thanks in advance for your advice.

What a treasure this film is!! I’ll also look for the rest of those films. My Swedish is still so beginner level, but I will share this with my Swedish class next week! In the meantime, I’ll certainly try lint rolling and lifting the red fuzz (especially from the white sections) from the surfaces first. Then I’ll go ahead and cut the 3 tablecloths apart (I zig zagged them on my machine) and fold them neatly in an accordion way to soak in soapy cool water. My sink is smaller than the film shows but I’ll plan on using my rolling pin and a breadboard on my counter top after I’ve air dried it to a damp stage. I’ll also review the finishing video from basics again.

My damask napkins from basics class did get some fold lines which I’m hoping will not be permanent, so hence my asking so many questions now. Thank you so much!!

Ps I tried to edit my reply but was only allowed to cancel and could not save my edits. I was trying to clarify I’ll use warm water and will accordion fold to wash because my sink is smaller than the one in the film. Ip spread out to dry in sun to damp stage then fold accordion again and use my rolling pin and bread board on my counter top for pressing. Thank you all so much!

Update: I continued to “harvest” many many more lint bunnies but the colors have not been bleeding into each other. Yes, my wash and rinse water has been pink, but any red that is showing on the other sections appears to be from very fine lint and not dye. I was amazed at the crisp pressed look of my sample after rolling it on my counter around a rolling pin with a breadboard on top! The linen smoothed out beautifully—no more linen “flannel.” Thank you for sharing the video of the mangle technique!!

I did have a texsolv tie up treadle cord break near the end of my weaving (many decades old) which I didn’t see until after taking the fabric off the loom. So I carefully clipped that weft pick at one selvage and have been weaving it back in correctly. But, that weft is now fuzzy so it is showing just as much as the floats were. I will try a fresh piece of weft yarn to see if I can get any better luck. I’m using a larger pastry needle to help open the space for less friction but may try using a smaller tapestry needle too. Another idea is to make a tiny pintuck pleat hiding that weft area. It might also just end up being embroidered over as in crazy quilt stitches as a last resort.